Route 1 in Imst |
After being at home for only 5 days, I
headed out to Austria for 2 more competitions – the first a World Cup held in
Imst and the second a European Youth Competition in Längenfeld 2 weeks later. I
will be brief: Imst was another disappointing competition for me… in fact all
of the World cups have been disappointing.
I’m not saying I expected to go out and find the compeititons a walk in
the park, I just know I didn’t climb as well as I could’ve.
Training in Vienna with Georg |
The conditions in Imst were pretty good;
Sunny but the air was fairly cold so friction was high. The first route was
quite techy and I managed to get through half of it before feeling the pump
kick in. I found that clipping really messed me up in this competition; on the
first route where I fell, you had to get a clip from a certain hold otherwise
it was too far to reach from the next holds. I felt too pumped to get the clip
from the awkward crouched on a volume position and so went for the next hold
but by then the clip was out of reach and there was no way I could continue.
Again I messed up a clip on route 2 which was, frustratingly, more my style and I
think I could’ve got pretty high on if I hadn’t have gone passed the best place
to clip a draw from. This meant I wasted energy climbing up and down to try and
clip and when I did get the clip in I had become too pumped and fell on a hard
rollover 2 holds higher.
The Längenfeld competition wall |
After Imst I was very motivated to train
hard and was looking forward to spending the two weeks between the World Cup
and the EYBC in Austria. It was so cool to use their amazing facilities and
visit walls in Vienna and Mitterdorf. And I even managed to climb on some rock too!
I really wanted to improve on my
performance in L’Argentierre and my goal for the competition was to make the
top 10. I really enjoyed the set and felt pretty strong on most problems. I got
off to a good start but started making errors and slipping. I finished with 6
tops in 9 and all of the bonuses. Unfortunately this was not enough for finals
but it did mean that I had achieved my goal, finishing in 9th place.
I was pleased to have achieved my goal but not satisfied. I was so close to
finals; I needed one more top and on my flash go on boulder 2, I fell after
touching the last hold which if I'd have topped would've pushed me into finals. Every other go on that problem my foot popped. This was
really frustrating for me as I was so close to making the finals and when it
comes down to things like foot slips which can easily be avoided it makes it
even more annoying. Sadly Längenfeld was my last international boulder
competition of this season but I wish the boulder team the best of luck for the
European Championships in Arco in a couple weeks!
Crew in Längenfeld |
Focused! Picture by Heiko Wilhelm |
Now I’ll focus on lead again as the World
Youth Championships is quickly approaching! With a month to go I’m extremely
motivated to get that last bit of training in before we literally travel to the
other side of the world to Noumea (New Caledonia).
Finally I’d like to say a massive
congratulations to Will Bosi for his well deserved 2nd place in
Längenfeld, and Tara Hayes and Max Ayrton for their strong performances in the
finals J
Thanks for reading!
And thanks to my sponsors:
Lyon (La Sportiva, Petzl, Beal)
BerghausNuLine
Natoora
Michael and Lauren Clancy
Sports Aid
Sport England
Westway Development Trust
My Grandparents :)
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