Molly Thompson Smith

Molly Thompson Smith
Edinburgh EYC 2013

Tuesday, 25 December 2012

Merry Christmas and all that jazz

After a week off to rest (the week after the Youth Opens in Liverpool) I have just had my first week back training. I think I am finally getting back into it... It is taking a while! I have just finished school so I am mega psyched to get training hard! Next year is going to be a hard one! 

This is only a short blog to post my video links from the Youth Open in Liverpool and basically to wish you all a merry Christmas!

So here are the links to the videos:

(Sorry about the dodgy filming!)

And finally I wanted to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!! 

Peace Molly.

Tuesday, 11 December 2012

The Youth Opens - Liverpool

2 Comps. 1 Weekend.

Last weekend, we arrived in Liverpool  around 7pm after a 5 hour car journey. Early-ish night and up at 6.50 Saturday morning. Nice quick breakfast and straight in the car. Listened to some tunes. Arrived at Awesome Walls Liverpool (true to the name) and got registered straight away. Number 8, cool. Talked to some Westway squaddies and got psyched to climb. Started warming up but had to pause to watch the demonstrations. Our first route was a technical, slabby pink route with bad holds, followed by a tiny overhang and slopey finish. It was excellently demoed by Luke Tilley who climbed it SO smoothly. Next route. It was on the barrel/back wall - my favourite. It was demoed by route setter Rob Napier. I was fourth up and climbing was starting soon. I rushed to finish my warm up and went to tie in.

Route 1 (Peter Wuensche)
I stepped off the floor and began - an easy start, feeling good. The middle was quite balancy on a mix of really small crimps and quite positive slopers. I was feeling strong - not pumped so I continued without much rest. I moved on to the mini overhang and kept climbing on to the last panel. A few balancy, locked off moves and a BIG lank for the last move meant a top. Chill.

Chilled out for a bit with my good friend and crusher Micky and then it was time for route 2. I had previously seen my training partner Buster absolutely walk up this route so I was psyched to make it look even easier (JOKE! ;)) Before I tied in, only Tara had topped. Tied in. Chalked up. Pulled on. Felt smooth. It was a juggy, flowy route that wandered a bit onto the side wall. I climbed half the route quickly without a pump and came to what had looked like the crux of the route where one had to swing their feet onto the side wall and walk up it a bit to reach the highest of the 4 holds that were in a line. I did this and moved back onto the main wall to power up the last couple of moves. Great. 2 tops = Final.

Route 1 (Peter Wuensche)
Isolation. I had to hand out and make sure everyone filled out their selection forms. I had never heard the word 'PEN!!!!' so many times in my life! We went out to observation. Had a great read with Angus and William (cheers guys!) whose beta was very helpful and much appreciated! It was a juggy route that two thirds of the way  up turned into big long volumes and really bad slopers. 

1 route. 8 minutes. I pulled on and climbed well up to the volumes. Had a shake and continued.It was over - 3 holds from the top. I was disappointed that I didn't top it but happy with my climbing on the day. When I got down I was happy to find out that I had won! 

Lead Podium
After the comp, I wanted to try the Youth A and Junior male's final route. (Thanks to Luke for the belay by the way!!) It was a purple given 8a+/b. I thought I might as well try it whilst I am here - just give it a go. I gave it a go, struggling with a 'rose' move near the top. To everyone's surprise, I topped the route!! My first 8a+/b flash!! I was shocked! I also tried the boys 2nd qualification route given 8a - I thought it was really hard and failed to do it. Home time. Dinner. Bed.

Bouldering! Woke early to watch the boys and help out. Saw some crushing by the boys and got mega psyched to climb. Finally, it was the girls time to climb! I flashed 4 blocs in the first 10 minutes and after a short rest got another flash in the bag. 5 down, 3 to go - it was going good. I tried another bloc but failed to do the second last move twice succeeding on my third attempt. For the last two, it was a second go job. I was disappointed it hadn't been an all flash qualification round but happy that I had qualified in joint first with Tara. A long wait in a tiny isolation area. Finally out to observe then climb. I dropped the last hold of the first bloc but got it next go. Disappointed. Next bloc. Flash - I really enjoyed this bloc, my favourite of the whole day; it was a crimpy, powerful problem with a dyno to finish. Last bloc, a powerful problem on positive holds. Flash. My performance had landed me a place on the GB junior bouldering team (woooooo!) and  a second place to Tara who totally deserved the win, climbing flawlessly throughout the whole day! I was pleased and tired. 
Bouldering Podium

Late finish for the comp meant a late bed time. Back to normal. School the next morning.

Season is sadly over but psyched to get training hard over the winter to come back stronger for the international comps next year.  Thanks to my awesome coaches Rob Russell and Liam Halsey for their enthusiasm, help at the comps and hard work over the season!! Peace!

SPECIAL MENTION to Rebecca Kinghorn (Member of Team GB) who climbed amazingly in the lead event on Saturday! Great to watch!
Team first place and Rob and Liam!!

Thanks to my amazing sponsors:

Lyon Outdoor (La Sportiva, Beal, Petzl)
Nu Line
McGrath Charitable Trust
Pilates on Elgin
CGA (Country Gentlemans Association
Westway Sports Development Trust

Joan and David Thompson (My grandparents!! :D)
My parents :)

Liquid Grip

Sunday, 2 December 2012

Links to climbs in Kranj

As promised, here are the links to my climbs in Kranj! :)

Route 1:

Route 2:

Finals Route: