Molly Thompson Smith

Molly Thompson Smith
Edinburgh EYC 2013

Sunday, 20 January 2013

Blocfest 2013

Yesterday, Jerome, my father and I braved the slush and snow to compete in the third round of the Blocfest 2013 series. I had previously been to Round 1 and entered the seniors finishing in 3rd place. This time I wanted to win. I had chosen to enter the seniors so I could habe the chance to practise my comp skills if I made finals. I got to a cold Reading Climbing Centre to see that fellow GB Team member Jim Pope had pretty much crushed all of his problems in the Junior category. I was lucky enough to have a nice conversation with legend Steve McClure and Jim before getting psyched to compete. 

Jim and Sacha :)

After a quick warm up it was time to compete. Qualifiers time. I went round with Jim and some other cool people and had soon flashed 22 out of 25 problems. I got 1 point for doing a sketchy, balancy problem with a last move that tested your flexibility on my 4th attempt. I had to use the 'Westway Knee' to do it! Finished qualifiers with a score of 221 out of 250 leaving me in 2nd place behind Audrey with a score of 232. I was pleased. Lunch time.

The lunch time crew

Quick CAC photo and some more chillin time. Isolation opened at 5. I always love the Blocfest showcase finals because of the amazing atmosphere: lights out with spotlights, great tunes and a loud audience!


Quick warm up and out to observation. Was lovin the new pink holds for the ladies final! They were awesome! Back into iso and the finals began. I was out with the Power Partridge which obviously lifted the psyche! Time for Bloc 1: A dyno for the first move followed by two more straight forward moves. Flash. So did Jonny. Back into iso. Waited and chatted for a bit - itching to get back out there and climb! Bloc 2, funky volumes. Started off well but then got the 2nd volume to greedily so I had to dangle and hang for a bit trying to sort my hands and feet out. Despite this I still flashed Bloc 2 along with Jonny. A final psyche fist bump with Jonny and it was on. Bloc 3 - cruxy volumes again. I was psyched for this one and finished with a flash. 


I was really happy that I won this comp and look forward to more senior competitions! Here are the videos of my final blocs:

Final Bloc 1

Final Bloc 2

Final Bloc 3

Big thanks to the Blocfest Team who did an amazing job with the setting and just overall comp! Thanks to Jim for filming too!! 

And thanks to my sponsors!

Lyon Outdoor (La Sportiva, Beal, Petzl)
Liquid Grip
Westway Sports Development Trust
Nu Line
McGrath Charitable Trust
Pilates on Elgin
CGA (Country Gentlemans Association)

Joan and David Thompson (My grandparents!! :D)
My parents :)