Molly Thompson Smith

Molly Thompson Smith
Edinburgh EYC 2013

Sunday, 12 May 2013

SYBC 2013 and the countdown to Edinburgh EYC

Last weekend, the Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships (used as one of the 3 British Bouldering Championships rounds) took place at TCA Glasgow. I was really excited for this comp as I had been training hard and had heard that it was an awesome wall. TCA Glasgow didn't disappoint; I loved the steepness of the majority of the walls and the set looked cool. I chilled out for a bit whilst the younger categories (C&D) completed their qualification round.
Final Bloc 2 (Sandy Carr)

An hour or two later it was time to start warming up slowly. Because the younger categories were still climbing and some walls were banned for warming up on, the little warm up are we did have was a bit crowded so the process took a bit longer than I had hoped. Nevertheless, I just about warmed up in time for the beginning of the qualification period. My tactics were simple - flash as many easy problems as I could all in one go so I could focus on the two harder ones later on. Stage one completed, I eyed up my final 2 blocs. They looked hard. I was the first competitor to pull on to the first, and felt okay. Two moves in I hit a difficult snatch out left onto a positive crimp on the underside of a volume. Luckily my fingers latched onto the hold a fraction of a second before it was too late. To my surprise, I finished the rest of the problem with relative ease. One down, one to go. I watched Nathan Phillips and Alex Waterhouse crush the problem and a few others struggle before I decided it was time. I pulled on and 6 or 7 moves later I was at the top. I sighed with relief  - the difficult part was over and I had secured my place in the finals. 15 out of 15 flashes in about 50 minutes of the comp... I was very pleased and enjoyed cheering others on and chilling on the sofas.

Final Bloc 3 (Sandy Carr)
Chilling time was up. I headed into isolation in joint first with Tara Hayes and Rachel Carr, who were both crushing and looking solid. I was psyched. After observation, I started to warm up. I was out 3rd last so had some time to get my head focused and make sure I was warm. First bloc. It was technical with a hard first move and crimpy top section. I pulled on. I came off. The first move wasn't working for me and I wasn't happy about it. It was hard staying psyched when I was struggling so much so I decided to have a quick rest and a think. I pulled on again and this time I stuck the move. I pulled through the volume section and up into the crimps at the top. I felt stuck. I couldn't move my feet without feeling like I was going to be spat of so I just jumped for the next crimp. Bad idea. I was never going to the hold that jump and came crashing down. With about 30 seconds left I tried to pull on again but the first move wasn't going again. I walked back to isolation disappointed and knowing I would have to step it up if I wanted a spot on the podium. 

Final Bloc 3 (Sandy Carr)
Bloc 2. Fresh start. It was a crimpy start with a slopery mid section into more crimps and screw ons with a jug to finish. It looked great - my style. I pulled through the first bit and onto the slopers. I was mega psyched - I loved positive slopers with locky moves. I rocked over to the second bonus and cruised the top section. I was extremely happy with my flash, especially when I found out that no one else had managed to do it. One more bloc and I wanted to hold that finish hold so bad. It was a long boulder that started in a cave traversing out right and finishing out left again. I pulled on, loving the double toe hook and heel to hand. I swung out to the right and pressed up (with some funky facial expressions!!) but came off a couple holds before the top. This happened 2 more times and I finished the comp with one flash and all of the bonuses. This meant that I had placed second behind Tara Hayes on attempts for bonuses. I was pleased with my result but wished I could have got the other final blocs as I thought they were do-able. 
Final Bloc AGAIN (Sandy Carr)

Unfortunately, myself and fellow Westway Squaddie and Bouldering Team member Alexia Basch (who came 3rd) had to miss the podium and dash for our planes home! TCA was a great venue for the comp and it was run amazingly. The day ran so smoothly and I just want to thank everyone involved for making it such a great comp! I am psyched for the next round in Leeds in August but now my focus will switch to lead climbing as I have my first international of the season in Edinburgh in June. 

27 DAYS! 

Thanks for reading and Train hard!

P.S, I'd like to thank Sandy Carr for all of the photos and my sponsors for all of their support: 

Lyon Outdoor (La Sportiva, Beal, Petzl)
Liquid Grip
Westway Sports Development Trust
Nu Line
McGrath Charitable Trust
Pilates on Elgin
Michael Clancy
CGA (Country Gentlemans Association)

Joan and David Thompson (My grandparents!! :D)

My Great Garndma
My Parents
NO-AD Suncream